It is not a great secret that in the “real world” I dislike Christmas intensely. I hate Christmas trees, dried up turkey and crackers. I cringe at the thought of a whole month of “driving home for Christmas” and “last Christmas” on the radio and I am deeply saddened by the misery that the commercialization brings. When my son – a policeman – wrote of being called to a suicide and then a domestic argument on Christmas Eve, that just confirmed all my prejudices.
Last year we avoided Christmas completely as we were at sea two hundred miles off the Sahara.
This year we spent the days anchored off Isla Canas in the Las Perlas archipelago. On Christmas Eve we joined our friends Elizabeth and Wim on a dinghy expedition up river to the cataracts at the river head. We had been told of these falls but had no accurate information where they were. We followed the largest river and got lucky. Lying in shady fresh water pools and eating chocolate brownies on a large rock in the middle of the jungle was definitely a dream outing. Back at the anchorage there was a waterfall on the beach so we could shower intensely before dessert and drinks on the yacht Bengt.
In the tiny and immaculately clean village across the bay we bought fresh fruit and vegetables. All the fruit was “cut to order” in the neighboring jungle while we waited at the store. We received a whole bucket of lemons so Heidi had to invent a new drink with lots of lemon, sugar and rum – “Canasitas”. Suggested dose if you need to walk or row: one!
On Christmas Day we read, swam, showered again and enjoyed the quiet. The only presents we gave or received was three liters of fresh water that a young family passing in their boat asked for and some sweets we gave their children.
Wo wir dieses Jahr an Weihnachten sein werden 🤔🤔 keine Ahnung das einzige was sicher war, dass wir irgendwo im Pazifik feiern werden. Wir fanden einen super schönen Ankerplatz an der Insel Espirito Santo ohne Swell und nur mit einem Nachbarboot Antje, ein deutsches Paar, dass wir bereits von den San Blas Inseln kannten. Doch wir wollten unbedingt noch frisches Obst und Gemüse für die Feiertage und darum fuhren (ja leider nicht segeln, da es zur Zeit fast gar keinen Wind gibt) wir zur Insel Canas. Und zu unserer Freude fanden sich auch unsere schwedischen Freunde Elisabeth und Wim ein😀😀; dieser Ankerplatz hier ist laut Segelführer der am besten geschützteste in ganz Las Perlas. Wir fuhren mit dem Dinghy zur Insel Canas zum schoppen; im Dorf dass unglaublich sauber und freundlich angelegt ist, erstanden wir Eier, Zwiebel sowie Papaya, Limetten, Pampelmusen und Bananen – alles direkt vom Baum, denn wir warteten, bis der Mann vom Laden mit seiner Machete ausrückte und mit dem Obst zu uns zurück kam🌴🌴. Eigentlich wollten wir noch Kartoffeln doch es gab keine, da zeigte uns der geschäftige Ladenbesitzer Jam – es sieht aus wie ein braunes Stück Holz oder eine Wurzel und wir hatten keine Ahnung wie es schmeckt, doch wir haben es mitgenommen, probiert und festgestellt, dass es schmeckt;👍 wenn ihr mich jetzt fragt nach was Mmmm,?? schwierig zu beschreiben, von der Konsestens wie Kartoffeln aber ein anderer Geschmack und der Saft ist klebrig🙄. Von den Limetten hat er gleich einen ganzen Eimer geholt und Elisabeth und ich teilten uns die Früchte – aber ganz ehrlich was macht man mit ca. 30 Limetten?🤭🤭🤭 Caipirinha aber ohne Eis? Wir haben einfach einen neuen Drink kreirt: zuerst braunen Zucker mit heißem Wasser aufgelöst, dann Limettensaft und -fruchtfleisch dazu, daß alles mit weißen Rum aufgießen (ein bissl Wasser, wem es sonst zu stark ist) und fertig ist der Canasitas – ich kann euch sagen der schmeckt, doch weil er so herrlich erfrischend und süffig ist, sollte man sich von den Folgen in Acht nehmen. 🙃🙃🙈🙈
Für den heiligen Abend wollten wir zusammen mit “Bengt” den nahe gelegenen Fluß erkunden, denn hier soll es auch einen Wasserfall geben und vielleicht sogar Krokodile🤭😲😲. Gegen Mittag trafen wir uns zu unserem Abenteuer mit anschließendem Picknick, Schokoladenbrownies und Kaffee😀😀. Als wir erfolgreich den Wasserfall erreichten, plantschten wir im kühlen Frischwasser und das anschließende Picknick auf einer Steinplatte im Fluß genossen wir ebenfalls in vollen Zügen. Zum Abendessen gab’s eine schwedische Spezialität “Reiscrem Ala Malaga” oder so – voll lecker und sehr nahrhaft,😁😁🌟 aber es ist ja Weihnachten. Nach einem rundum gelungenen Tag machten wir uns gegen 22 Uhr auf den Heimweg, rudern war angesagt aber die 100 Meter waren unter einem sagenhaft schönen Sternenhimmel ⭐⭐⭐ eher zu kurz als anstrengend. Wir hatten keine Ahnung wie wir unseren Weihnachtsabend verbringen würden, doch mit Freunden in einer einsamen Bucht zu feiern war wunderschön und voll romantisch 😀😀😀
Three weeks ago we sailed to the Las Perlas archipelago off the Pacific coast of Panama. After transiting the Panama Canal and spending a week anchored off the city, we just wanted to “get away” and find some lonely corner of the ocean.
We sailed through the night and before sunrise were off the Isla Pedro Gonzales. We anchored in a bay well protected from winds from all directions. We dinghied to a pontoon and were firmly but politely told that everything except the village is private and sent on our way. We visited the only village and bought a dinghy full of fruit straight out of the jungle. Originally the seller literally filled our tender with more fruit than we could ever eat. We laughingly explained that there are only two of us and took most of the produce back out. That night we visited the private marina and drank an amazing Mohito in the bar – which was open just for us; the only guests. It was depressing to compare the poor village with the luxury just across the bay but a world apart.
Next we sailed further south to the (also private) island of Isla San Jose. We anchored off a long sandy beach and saw almost nobody for four days. One day we rowed to the beach and waved to four locals on a neighbouring hill just to prove our social skills are still functioning. Trying to get back off the beach through the waves was challenging and ended with a dinghy full of sea.
Heading back north, we threaded through the hidden reefs and rocks to anchor in a tiny bay off Isla Bayoneta. At low tide we took the dinghy through a channel between the islands and plotted a safe route through the rocks. At one point we only had twenty centimeters below us. When we reached the anchorage beyond the channel we saw a familiar looking catamaran with a Brittany flag and were invited for coffee by Marc and Sylvie on Iroise who we know from the Canal transit. Later, at high tide, we took Artemis along the same route with a comfortable two and a half meters of water.
Our next stop was off Isla Viveros. Here developers have built roads and laid electricity to each plot so that rich people can build nice holiday houses. There are a few houses but overall an air of decay. It looks like another great idea that isn’t working. At least there is a functioning beach club and the day before Heidi’s birthday the swedish boat Bengt appeared with our friends Elizabeth and Wim on-board. The result was a long birthday lunch (with a few drinks) followed by Curry (and more drinks) on board Artemis.
We traveled to Isla del Rey and anchored off the small township of San Miguel. The plan was to find some jungle trails for the mountain bikes. On foot, we followed the only track out of town and in to a dense tunnel of foliage. It looked promising but less than a kilometer later it stopped at the towns airstrip. Here there are no trails; everyone travels by boat. On the way back we stocked up with fresh fruit and a few other essentials – as well as a six pack of Coke which cost as much as everything else together.
Another few miles along the coast and we found cruisers paradise. A well protected anchorage behind the island of Isla del Espiritu Santo. No swell from any direction. Jungle in all directions. Beaches and even a fresh water stream. Pelicans, fishing bats at night, jumping fish and even a dolphin. Bengt is anchored nearby and we are definitely “away from it all”.
The pilot books write that fresh water streams enter the sea here off Isla del Rey. An old, hand drawn map even shows one of them but we couldn’t reach it through the magroves. Neighbours on a german boat had been here many years ago and knew the location of an easy to reach stream up a long inlet. Yesterday morning, just before high tide, a convoy of three dinghys headed off across the bay loaded with washing and empty water canisters.
We have different “qualities” of water that we use. Sea water is great for the first clean; be it cleaning of boat, kitchen utensils, lines or people. And it is limitless. Stream water we also use for cleaning. Marina water is drinkable but mostly tastes of chlorine. Still good for coffees, cooking and everyday use. Rainwater is pure away from the cities and after the first run off goes in to the main tank. The Katadyn water maker produces pure water that we drink and the excess we also add to the tank.
The stream is really well hidden but, with our “guide” leading the way, we found it easily. A few right angle bends through the mangroves and we tied up at the streams outlet. A little boulder hopping took us to some pools surrounded by flat rocks under the shade of the jungle canopy. There was no sign of crocodiles and the six of us were loud enough to warn the biggest snakes that we were there so we could wash our clothes and seat covers in peace.
We filled five containers with water destined to be used to clean Artemis and then did some serious showering revelling in the absolute luxury of limitless fresh water and the coolness below the dense foliage.
Today we planned an early start and boat cleaning with our five canisters of water. And then it rained. Within minutes we were being lashed by wind driven rain. Heidi shot out of bed and started to collect rainwater for our fresh water tank. When the wind rose such that the water was coming horizontally, she grabbed a scrubbing brush and motivated Neill to help clean the entire deck and cockpit with the never ending rain. The dinghy was swimming in water so all the lines (ropes) and strops we own were uncoiled and thrown in to the “floating washing machine”. We changed between cleaning and collecting water depending on the angle of the rain but by midday the tank was filled to seventy percent, Artemis was shining and …
… the canisters of stream water are still full and looking for a new use.
We are anchored off Viveros Island in the Las Perlas archipeligo. We have been “lost” among these pacific islands for nearly two weeks now. Uninhabited islands, reefs and deep water passages between all the rock. Jumping fish, Rays swimming in formation under the boat and pelicans flying above us. Sunshine, breezes and a huge full moon at night. We have reached paradise.
Two days ago the Swedish sailing yacht Bengt sailed in to the bay and yesterday we celebrated Heidi’s birthday at the beach club on the island followed by dinner on Artemis. Life is good.
Today we tuned the radio in to the Panamanian radio station Ultra Stereo 98.9FM to enjoy non-stop music from the 80s. Just after sunset they played ” a whole lotta Rosie” by AC/DC.
So there I was with the radio turned up full and singing “Wanna tell you story About woman I know When it comes to lovin’ She steals the show…” at the top of my voice to my bikini clad beauty.
I think, if 19 year old me could have seen 56 year old me he would have approved.
Las Perlas ein Archipel im Pazifik – so so, hättest du mich vor zwei Jahren gefragt wo das ist, hätte ich gesagt keine Ahnung . Aber jetzt weiß ich, dass es eine Inselgruppe ganz in der Nähe von Panama ist.👍
Pazifische Inseln sind ähnlich wie die atlantischen, Sandstrand, Palmen nur das Wasser ist grün und nicht blau – witzig😀😀 und hier bei Panama gibt es Gezeiten von ca. zwei bis drei Metern. Wir haben uns heute am Sonntag den 7.12. zur Isla Bayonetta auf den Weg gemacht; zur Routenplanung brauchten wir den Bauhaus Gide, die ziemlich beste Karte für Panama und Umgebung , damit wir die Riffs und Steine finden konnten. Bei der Einfahrt stand ich am Bug um nach eben diesen Dingern Ausschau zu halten. Im Ankerfeld ist keiner außer uns und unglaublich vielen Vögeln, 😆Pelikane, Frigattenvögel und von den anderen kenn ich die Namen nicht. Wir machten uns mit dem Dinghy und Paddeln auf den Weg um die Insel zu erkunden, fanden aber leider keine Möglichkeit durch den dichten Dschungel etwas tiefer in die Insel einzudringen🌴🌴. Als wir eine Palme mit reifen Kokosnüssen fanden, versuchte Neill eine Nuss mit einer anderen abzuschießen – es blieb beim Versuch 🤭🤭🙈🙈. Außer Sandfliegen und leider auch viel Müll, den das Meer angespült hat, haben wir leider nichts gefunden. Mit dem aufgefangen Regenwasser🌧️🌧️ von heute morgen, dass wir in unserem “schwarzen Sack” warm bzw. heiß gemacht haben, duschten wir ausgiebig und jetzt genießen wir das Rauschen der Brandung, die angenehme Wärme und stellen wieder einmal fest, dass wir es richtig gemacht haben loszufahren.😀😀 Morgen werden wir mit dem Dinghy bei Niedrigwasser einen Weg auf die andere Seite der Insel suchen, damit wir dann bei Hochwasser mit unserer Artemis dorthin fahren können. Freu mich schon auf die spannende Herausforderung .😁 Um 8.15 Uhr gings los doch weit kamen wir mit dem Motor nicht, da wir nur etwa 40 cm unterm Kiel hatten, doch wir klappten den Motor hoch und ruderten weiter. Neill zeichte unsere Route über Navionix auf, damit wir später genau wussten, wo wir zu fahren haben. Auf der anderen Seite staunten wir nicht schlecht, denn Sylivi und Mark unsere französischen Katamaran Begleiter durch den Panamakanal, ankerten dort. Um 12 Uhr durchquerten wir die Passage und trotzdem wir genau wussten, dass es tief genug war, wars ein komisches Gefühl. 🙄🤗
The perfect cruiser’s dinghy packs up really small and can be stowed away for passages. At the same time it should be stable in use and capable of carrying people and cargo safely and relatively dryly.
Our inflatable Avon fulfils the first specification perfectly. It takes a little time to install the wooden slat floor and rowing seat then blow it up and just as long to reverse the process but it stows in the aft locker. Unfortunately it fails on the safe and dry requirement. If we use it to go up wind against waves of any size, the only suitable apparel is bathing clothes and everything we take needs to be extremely well packed. More than once it turned over in the wind and once set the outboard under water. When we visit another boat, we need to remove the motor and hang it on their boat if we want to relax.
In the Caribbean the Avon was ripped directly next to a seam. Four attempts by us to repair it all failed and when we found an expert in Panama, he could only solve the problem by lifting part of the seam and glueing under it. His repair worked but we needed a more reliable tender.
The selection of small dinghys in Panama is not huge but with the help of Sheila (an American lady rebuliding her boat at Port Linton) we bought an AB dinghy with a fiberglass bottom. This is safe and stable but impossible to stow any where but between the mast and inner forestay. Sailing is, of course, a series of compromises so we have now developed a way of doing that. Once we have the AB dinghy in the water she is great fun. We bought her just before Annalena and Daniel arrived and “test drove” extensively in the San Blas Islands. In the Las Perlas archipeligo we completely filled her with water when a breaker swamped us just off the beach but, even full of water and sand, she can be rowed home.
With the dinghy, we received a free dinghy chap (a material cover to protect the dinghy from sun and rubbing). It was for a different size and type of dinghy and had no holes for the carrying handles or anything but did come with a bag of “blue bits” to sew as protection around any holes. Luckily we have a Heidi on board and she and her sewing machine can do anything. After hours and days of hard work, perspiration and many many broken needles, we had a cover that fitted and a matching bag to stow items while in transit.
Another sailor told us he had been quoted one thousand US dollars for such a dinghy chap and Heidi now says she fully understands why they cost so much. She doesn’t plan a production series.
A boat is freedom. Freedom to go where you want, when you want. With Artemis full of food and a fair wind, we can travel far away from civilisation and visit otherwise unreachable places. But you need water. Until now we have filled our tank where ever we have found a supply and, in the worst case, bought bottles. But the logistics detract from the enjoyment and, as we head out in to the Pacific, good drinking water will become a scarce commodity.
So we have invested in a small Katadyn 40E water maker. This magic device takes fifty liters from the surrounding sea and five ampere hours of electricity with which, through the miracle of reverse osmosis, it produces five liters of drinkable fresh water. We use about ten liters a day so in two hours we can produce all we need for that day.
This is one of the smallest devices used on boats but it has the advantage that we can power it from wind and solar power. It also fits nicely in our “bathroom” which is now the “water works”. We bought this model as every one wrote that it “just works”. Andi Blenk installed one this year and his positive feedback convinced us to invest.
Unfortunately our system didn’t “just work” as it had been incorrectly assembled in the factory. We needed many emails, lots of tests, much frustration and hundreds of extra dollars before we tasted our first fresh water but now it works and it was worth it.
We use a pre-pump to take sea water from the ocean and pass it through a sieve and two pre-filters. The standard system uses one filter but this way we can run it in silty anchorages. The filtered water enters the Katadyn and is then compressed and forced through a membrane which removes most of the salt leaving less than 200 parts per million which is far less than we can taste.
The people who built our foldable mountain bike frames – Montague – asked if they could write about our travels and we agreed. But we mentioned that a couple of T-shirts would be nice in return.
In the middle of August Liza sent two T-shirts to us via the US post addressed to the marina in Aruba. Three weeks later the shirts had not appeared and the tracking system showed that they were in Tokyo! California to Aruba via Tokyo makes no sense.
In September Liza agreed to send us two more shirts to Germany but before she could send them out, we received a message from Aruba (which we had long ago left) that the T-shirts were there. We asked the Marina to give them to an American boat who passed them on to a Swedish boat heading our way.
Bengt – the Swedish boat overshot us when we were offline in the San Blas Islands so our boats finally met up at the end of November anchored off Panama City in the Pacific. And finally we have two Montague T-shirts.
Daniel and his girlfriend Annalena visited us in Panama and spent two weeks with us cruising the San Blas Islands. Here is the blog post he wrote about it.
In August 2019 Dad and Heidi met up with us during their visit in Germany. Oh by the way, when I’m talking of “us”, I mean my beautiful girlfriend Annalena and me. We agreed that we would spend our holidays at the end of October 2019 on Artemis of Ileyn. We didn’t know where exactly it would be, but they could roughly tell us to book a flight to Panama. So time rushed by and we had booked our flight from Munich to Panama City via Paris. Yes! We were really heading to the Caribbean Sea just off the coast of Panama, to the San Blas Islands! After a 20-hours-trip with a lot of traffic jams in Germany and two flights, we reached Panama City Airport where we were welcomed by our taxi driver Vidal. He couldn’t speak a single word of English and neither does one of us two speak Spanish, but he knew where we had to go. So off went our trip from the Pacific through the jungles of Panama to the Caribbean side of the country, where Dad and Heidi were waiting for us. Although we weren’t able to communicate with Vidal, it wasn’t a silent ride as we had Spanish music on full volume for 2 1/2 hours. But Vidal seemed to be a nice guy and I wanted to stay awake to see a bit of the country anyway, so I didn’t mind the music. Annalena obviously didn’t too, as she fell asleep very soon. After a few hours driving along rough roads in the dark in a foreign country with hundreds dogs running infront of the car we reached Linton Bay Marina at 10.30pm, which felt like the end of the world. No one could tell me where Dad’s and Heidi’s boat was, no one could speak English, we had no internet, the security did not want to let us two good looking young Europeans into the Marina and I couldn’t reach Dad or Heidi on their mobile phone. By that time I thought “that was it, we’re stuck in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night and noone can speak English”. But then, luckily, our taxi driver Vidal, who I can call my friend now after helping us out, contacted the owner of the Marina, who I had booked the taxi over. And yes, he spoke English and Spanish and was possible to tell the security to walk through the Marina with us so I could try and find the boat. So off we went, said goodbye to Vidal, as he wanted to get back home, and after 15 minutes of searching we found the boat. Heidi was outside and recognized us in the dark and Dad followed her straight away. YES! We had found them! After telling them about our adventurous journey and exploring the boat and being awake for 23 hours, we fell into bed.
The next day we woke up to the smell of coffee and bread, which Dad and Heidi had made themselves. During our stay we found out that they do not only make bread, but even much more! After breakfast it was time to go shopping in the neighbour town. We were lucky as Dad and Heidi already knew a few people at the Marina. Shila & Susi were just on their way to the town we had to go to, so they took us in their car. Susi & Dad in the front and four of us stacked on each other in the back without seat belts. Welcome to Panama! After reaching the town we wandered through the streets, had a look at left-overs of an old fort and went shopping. We had to get enough to eat and drink for the next two weeks, as we were going to head off to the San Blas Islands, which are located north-east off the Panamaian mainland. After filling our bags and a snack on the street, we took a taxi back to the boat and stocked it up with our shopping. The rest of the day we visited the monkeys on a near-by island using the dinghy and played cards in the evening. The next morning it was time to fetch the new dinghy Dad and Heidi had ordered and I must say, it’s so much better than the old one. It has a hard floor and just looks great! I was in charge of taking it for a test ride. It’s such a good toy!
After placing the new dinghy on the boat and saying goodbye to Steve & Nelly, who is an American with his dog we met, we motored out as far as we could, but where it was possible to anchor, so we could leave for the San Blas Islands very early the next day.
The next morning had arrived and we left Linton Bay Marina at 6am as we had a long trip ahead of us. Dad worked out before that it would take us about 7-8 hours to motor, as their would be no wind at all. And he was right. After 8 hours out on the open sea, going up and down big waves, we reached an anchorage at Chichime Island, our first stop of the San Blas Islands. It was an amazing moment seeing these tiny islands appear on the horizon and getting bigger and bigger. Not only Chichime island, but all the other islands we visited, were that small that you could easily walk around one in about half an hour. Of course we had lots and lots of time, so it took us a lot longer. But who cares? We’re on holiday! The San Blas Islands really are how you imagine the Caribbean to be. Palm trees, white sand, blue water, local fishermen out in tree stumps fishing for any type of fish they can catch and no tourists whereever you look. For years there had always been something in my head wanting to see the Caribbean in real life, and now was the moment this “dream” came true! It is hard to describe in words how different but beautiful these islands are, but just have a look at the pictures and then imagine it being five times as good as the picture. That’s what it feels like being in the Caribbean, and especially being on tiny islands with only local people, sailing boats nearby and waves around you.
In total we then spent ten days and nine nights sailing in between the islands, mostly spending two nights at one island and then sailing to the next anchorage. We never had the feeling of being surrounded by boats or other people, because the most you had was maybe five boats at one anchorage. Many days we spent passing two or three boats and anchoring by our own or with one neighbour. It’s amazing how the local people live in these places. They go fishing in their tiny boats and ask the sailors before if they need any fish, then they also catch the fish for them and sell them for a bit of money. But money isn’t what it’s about out on their islands. Sometimes they just want to swap some fruits for a bag of sugar or their caught fish for a few bottles of drinking water. Seeing this just made me so happy, as at home in Europe money does somehow rule the people’s life and decides how you spend your life.
During our holiday we got to see so many things which we wouldn’t have seen back in Germany. Leaving our mobile phones in the cabin for most of the time made me feel completely free. Of course you don’t have the opportunity to quickly grab your phone when for example dolphins appear next to the boat. But you experience the situation in that moment and enjoy it even more. These memories will be in my head for the rest of my life and that is what is important for me. Just switching off from the daily routine, leaving everything where it is for two weeks, let work be work, let bills be bills, let stress be stress and just give yourself a break. We therefore spent our time enjoying monkeys jumping from tree to tree, dolphins swimming next to the sailing boat for many minutes, us trying to communicate with local people, playing card games and having a few sunset drinks, jumping into warm blue clear water, snorkeling through reefs, watching fish we had never seen before swimming around and meeting other sailors who tell us their life stories and about their sailing trips.
I think we have been able to freshen up our sailing skills after Dad and Heidi are experts now and you can just learn from them by watching. That doesn’t mean that we we’re only watching, no. Annalena helped Heidi with the anchor a lot and learned some new knots for the ropes. I mostly was in charge of steering and making sure that we don’t hit any reefs under the boat.
I really have to mention the kitchen on Artemis of Ileyn. Even in a tiny kitchen it is possible to cook amazing food. It must be because of Heidi’s “magic” (that’s what Dad calls it). From home-made bread and lasagna, lobster and pizza to Spaghetti Aglia e Olio and salad. Heidi did do a great job to make sure that noone on board has to be hungry and Dad did a good job cutting, but also making bread and coffee all by himself. That has definitely got better compared to what I can remember a few years ago! Good job Dad!
It definitely wasn’t the last visit on Artemis of Ileyn (I hope you’re alright with that Dad and Heidi). We found out that a day trip to the San Blas Islands costs more than 100 USD and we got a two week package including a bed and plenty of food. All we had to do was invite the two sailors out for dinner twice. Oh yes, if you want to pay for something when Dad and Heidi are around, you have to be fast. Otherwise they have paid before you even know the amount.
Thank you for an amazing time, it was great to see you two again. We will surely be back for lots of sailing, snorkeling and sunset drinks!